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Just 29 years old, Wagner Eleuteri represents the third bearing of a ancestors that has accumulated one of the world’s best absurd best adornment collections—from lush, cabochon-covered bracelets by Bulgari and characteristic Egyptian-inspired necklaces by Van Cleef & Arpels to postwar Patek Philippes and more.

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Originally purveyors of aged adornment in Rome at the end of the 19th century, Pietro Eleuteri, Wagner’s grandfather, aesthetic the focus of his family’s business to best adornment in the 1960s. Since then, Eleuteri has broadcast to boutiques in Venice, Milan, and, best recently, Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

Here, we ask Wagner Eleuteri for tips on what best designs we should consistently be attractive for, the fail-safe pieces you can abrasion forever, and his best contempo amazing discovery.

First allotment of adornment you were given?

When I was baptized as a baby, I was accustomed a gold cantankerous chaplet from the 19th century, fabricated in Italy. I abrasion it for appropriate occasions now, like on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, or Easter. For my aboriginal communion, I was accustomed a watch—a best GMT Rolex anachronous 1958—which I started cutting aback I was 18 or 19 years old and still abrasion to this day.

Are there any accessories for men that are decidedly accepted appropriate now?

Vintage watches—especially Patek Philippe designs from post-World War II, amid the 1950s and the 1970s. If you’re giving a man a allowance for a anniversary or birthday, belt links are perfect; you can’t go wrong.

Vintage Patek Phillipe watches  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

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Malachite adornment cufflinks and gold aeroplane cufflinks, about 1950s.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

What are some of your best admired pieces?

I accept a accustomed addiction against bright jewelry—bold adornment that’s a little chichi and spunky. I adulation adornment with lots of semi-precious gems and cabochon stones. Designs like these were pioneered afterwards World War II, mainly by Italian houses like Bulgari and Fasano.

I’m additionally a big fan of the old Victorian tremblant annual brooches that flutter and move whenever they’re annoyed or touched. They’re like a allotment of art added than anything.

Vintage Bulgari jewelry, about 1960s.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

Diamond “en tremblant” brooch, about backward 19th century.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

Are brooches advancing back?

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Compared to 5 years ago, yes, they are, definitely. Younger women in their thirties and forties are abutting brooches again. I see them cutting [brooches] on their hats, in their hair, or on their shoes, even.

Iconic, must-have pieces for every adornment collection?

In agreement of solid investments that absorb and abound in value, go with Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. They are the three best alluring and best acclaimed brands aback it comes to jewelry.

If you go with Cartier or Van Cleef, I would admonish allotment pieces from the Art Deco aeon or the ’40s and ’50s. For Van Cleef, attending into the Egyptian and Indian awakening collections.

When it comes to Bulgari, go with designs from the alleged dolce adventures aeon in Italy, in the ’60s and ’70s.

Cartier bittersweet and design necklace, about 1936 and Tutti Frutti annual brooch, about 1930s.  Photo: CourtesyEleuteri

Van Cleef & Arpels parure comprised of necklace, armlet and ring, about 1985.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

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Most recent, agitative adornment discovery?

I absolutely aloof bought a admirable Cartier Art Deco armlet from the mid to backward ’20s, additionally by Cartier New York. It’s actual geometrical, and the abnormal allotment of it is its three very, actual continued emerald-cut diamonds. Unusually long, like disproportionally long, I would say.

Cartier Art Deco articulate platinum bracelet, about 1920s, $195,000.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

 What’s a abundant go-to, archetypal allotment of jewelry?

I would say a gold armlet or a brace of gold earrings—something you would abrasion at atomic every week. Choose article as wearable as possible. In agreement of an investment, if I were a woman, I wouldn’t go for the actual big-ticket allotment of adornment I’d get to abrasion already every brace of years but rather article that I would abrasion every day—something I could get the best out of. That ability be a anchoress or a gold bracelet. You know, jewels are meant to be worn; they’re not meant to be in a safe at home or in a coffer vault.

Fred bifold bobcat bangle, About 1970s, $27,000. Platinum, sapphire, and design bracelet, about 1950s, $110,000. Gold and fair ear pendants, Ciociaria, about 1790.  Photo: Courtesy Eleuteri

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